You’ll find few soft things on a U.S. Navy ship. The outside
of the ship tells you little, other than its sheer size, which causes vertigo
as you stand at the edge of the pier and look up to the towering antennas, and
the color—which is gray. There are varying shades of gray. Gunmetal gray, deck
gray, light gray, dark gray. But they’re all gray and it is a hard color. When
you step onboard, you begin to duck—if you’re a fast learner. The tight
oval holes of the hatchways sneak up on you in an obvious way. The tops of
these ovals hang down from the oppressive ceiling, lower than you expect. Short people, who have never
had the need to duck for anything in their lives, will start ducking. It
becomes a reflex. Unfortunately, it’s not a reflex you lose once off the ship.
Sometimes years later, you can still identify a sailor by his duck-walk. He will duck at the slightest provocation. A low ceiling? Duck. A ceiling
fan hung a bit far down? Duck. A doorway that isn’t at least three feet higher
than the head? DUCK.
But it’s not just the ducking. A sailor develops a sort of
high-stepping shamble. It might sound contradictory, but once you try it, you’ll
find it is possible, and quite valuable on a ship. Hatchways have a rim, and that rim
will ensure you learn to pull your knees up as you make your way through the
ship. The steel rim has an edge—a hard, sharp, unbelievably painful edge. When
your shin makes contact with this rim, you will invent new curse words just to
increase the variety in your blue-streak. Learning to pick your feet up while
you duck is vital to your well-being. As a beginner, you may get a few bloody noses when your face inadvertently connects with a knee, but that's a price you pay for wanting a life at sea. So you start to walk in a kind of
Hitleresque goose-stepping march with your shoulders hunched and your chin
tucked to your chest.
During your head-ducking-goose-stepping routine, you notice
the deck. It is gray, with spots of dingy brown from drips of coffee and dirty
boots. The rest of your surroundings are white. Not a bright, clean white. A
yellowed, sad, creamy off-white you can tell just isn’t the right color. What
it isn’t the right color for, you’re never quite sure—but it’s not the right
color. When you dare to pick your head up for a brief moment, a ladder
materializes before you. The ladder is metal, and gray—a sort of dull, gleaming
gray. It looks unstable. Nevertheless, it insists you climb it. The first step
shows it’s steeper and narrower than it looks. It is unstable. But you quickly
forget the rickety sway in the loud din that envelopes you with the first
contact. The horrible noise rivals the sound a toddler can make with a few
spoons and some pots and pans. It is loud and metallic and booming. It only
bothers you for the first few ladders, however. After that, your hearing is
gone and it doesn’t matter.
When you reach the next deck, you can’t resist the urge to
keep climbing. You goose-step-duck around the ladderwell to the foot of the
next noise-maker and continue up. As you climb, you notice a difference. The
odor of paint and oil and grease and bodies lessens. The air feels cooler
against your skin, which is damp with sweat from climbing these infernal
ladders.
After eons, you reach the last of the ladders. This
ladderwell is pitch black, not gray. Like the moment in the early morning just
before dawn when the moon drops and the night closes around you, the void smothers
you in a vacuum of color and light. You catch your breath. The alcove somehow
both mutes and heightens the rumble of metal as you climb the last ladder. You
reach the hatchway and pull the bar to unlock the door. You’re desperate to
plunge through the doorway. But this is the sneakiest hatch of all. Its rim is
even higher than the others. It thrusts up from the top of the ladder, counting
on you to maintain your body’s reflexive movement and step only as high as the
last step. As you crack the hatch, bright light streams in, preventing folly
and saving your shins—sometimes.
The deck here is gray, of course. The few pieces of
equipment and rooms for storage are gray. But when you look up, the cool breeze
caresses you and it’s a clear blue sky. The blue eases a burden up those many ladders, one you never realized you carried.